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UK punks displaying elements of early and 1980s punk fashions, circa 1986
Enlarge picture
Henry Rollins of Black Flag, displaying hardcore anti-fashion
When punk underwent its 1980s hardcore, Oi!/streetpunk and UK82 renaissance, new
fashion styles developed as parallel resurgences occurred in the United States
and United Kingdom. The US scene was exemplified by bands such as Black Flag,
Minor Threat, and Fear. The 1980s American scene spawned a utilitarian
anti-fashion that was nonetheless raw, angry, and intimidating. In the UK, much
of the punk music and fashion in the 1980s was influenced by heavy metal and the
Oi! scene. However, elements of the 1970s punk look never fully died away. What
many recognize as typical punk fashions today emerged from the 1980s British
scene, exemplified by bands such as The Exploited, Charged GBH, and The
Partisans. Some of the following clothing items were common on both sides of the
Atlantic Ocean, and some were unique to certain geographic areas.
Footwear that was common in the 1980s punk scene included Dr. Martens boots,
motorcycle boots and steel-toed combat boots; sometimes adorned with bandanas,
chains or studded leather bands. Jeans (sometimes dirty, torn or splattered with
bleach) and tartan kilts or skirts were commonly worn. Leather skirts became a
popular item for female punks. Heavy chains were sometimes used as belts. Bullet
belts, and studded belts (sometimes more than one worn at a time) became common.
Some punks bought T-shirts or plaid flannel shirts and wrote political slogans,
band names or other punk-related phrases on them with marker pens. While this
was not without precedent in the 1970s, the depth and detail of these slogans
were not fully developed until the 1980s. Silkscreened T-shirts with band logos
or other punk-related logos or slogans were also popular. Studded, painted and
otherwise customised leather rocker jackets or denim vests became more popular
during this era, as the popularity of the earlier customized blazers waned. Hair
was either shaved, spiked or in a crew cut or Mohawk hairstyle. Tall mohawks and
spiked hair, either bleached or in bright colors, took on a more extreme
character than in the 1970s. Charged hair, in which all of one's hair stands on
end but is not styled into distinct spikes, also emerged. Amongst female punks,
a hairstyle similar to The Misfits' devilocks was popular. This involved shaving
the entire head except for a tuft at the front. Body piercings and extensive
tattoos became very popular during this era, as did spike bands and studded
chokers. Sometimes bandana were worn to indicate gang affiliation. Some hardcore
punk women reacted to the earlier 1970s movement's vibe by adopting an asexual
style.
Contemporary
Enlarge picture
Punks at a music festival
Current factions of the punk subculture have different clothing habits, although
there's often crossover between the different subgroups, in terms of style. Punk
fashion has influenced elements of many other similar fashions, most notably
heavy metal fashion. One of the few elements in every form of punk fashion is a
t-shirt with a band logo on it .
Punk clothing in general has always been based around an anti-fashion DIY-ethic.
The term "Punk Fashion" is in fact an oxymoron. Screen-printing, stenciling and
painting ones own clothes, is almost a philosophy in itself, relating to
anti-commercialism of clothing, and also expression of ones views by painting
them on ones shirt. An idea immortalised in the phrase "Like trousers, like
brain."
Standard punk
In general, modern punks wear leather, denim, spikes, chains, and combat boots.
They often wear elements of early punk and hardcore fashion, such as kutten
vests , bondage pants (often plaid) and torn clothing. There is a large
influence by DIY-created and modified clothing, such as ripped pants or shirts.
Hair is typically dyed in bright colors such as red, blue, green, pink or orange
and arranged into a mohawk or liberty spikes. Hair can be cut very short or
shaved, but this does not necessarily mean the individual is a skinhead. Belts
with metal studs, and bullet belts, are popular. Leather or denim jackets and
vests often have patches or are painted with logos that express musical tastes
or political views. Pants are usually tapered tightly. Metal spikes or studs are
often added to jackets and vests.
Hardcore
There are several styles of dress within the hardcore scene, and styles have
changed since the genre started as hardcore punk in the late 1970s. What is
fashionable in one branch of the hardcore scene may be frowned upon in another.
Clothing styles are often chosen to make moshing easier to perform. Plain
working class dress and short hair (with the exception of dreadlocks) are
usually associated with hardcore punk. Mute colors and minimal adornment are
usually common. Some elements of hardcore clothing are baggy jeans or work
pants, athletic wear, bandanas (usually worn hanging out of their back pocket),
cargo or military shorts, band T-shirts, plain T-shirts, and plain hoodies. Some
hardcore bands and fans wear clothing items that are similar to contemporary or
old school hip hop fashion, such as baseball caps, athletic wear and shoes,
necklaces, belt buckles, and clothing by athletic brands such as Nike, Adidas,
Pony, and Puma. Personal comfort and the ability to mosh are highly influential
in this style (Jewelry, spikes, tight clothes, flashy hair and chains are highly
uncommon and discouraged in hardcore fashion.)
Anarcho-Punk
Anarcho-punk fashion is a politicised adaptation of traditional punk fashion.
This all black militaristic fashion was pioneered by Crass in the United Kingdom
and by T.S.O.L. in the United States. Other common features are the refusal to
wear leather and the heavy use of anarchist symbols and slogans. Some whom
define themselves as Anarcho-Punks may opt to wear clothing similar to
traditionalist punks or crust punks, but not often to the extreme of either
subculture . Leather is often replaced with imitation leather or cloth in a
similar design as leather products .
Crust punk
Crust punk fashion is an extreme evolution of traditional punk fashion, and is
heavily influenced by bands such as Doom, Amebix and Antisect. Typical crust
punk fashion includes black or camouflage trousers or shorts covered in patches
(heavy work pants are popular for their durability), torn band T-shirts or
hoodies covered in patches, studded vests and jackets (commonly black denim),
bullet belts, jewelry made from hemp and other natural/found objects, and
sometimes bum flaps. Patches, even band patches, are often of a political
nature. Patches are often screen printed at home by the individual crust punks.
Clothing tends to be unwashed and unsanitary by conventional standards, and
dreadlocks are popular. Crust punks sometimes sew articles of clothing with
found or cheaply-bought materials. Baseball caps with patches sewn on are
popular headgear. Pants are often held up with string or hemp.
Deathrock and Horror punk
Enlarge picture
A girl with a Batcave hairstyle.
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Deathrock fashion
Deathrock and Horror punk fashion is similar to goth fashion. Black is the
predominant color. Deathrock and horror punk incorporates a sexier image,
incorporating fishnets, corsets and elaborate make-up for men and women. The use
of occult and horror imagery is prevalent on T-shirts, buttons, patches and
jewelery. The Misfits Fiend Skull is a common sight on articles of clothing.
Other common adornments include band names painted on jackets or bleached into
clothes, as well as buttons or patches indicating cities. The initials D and R
(for Death Rock) may part of a crossbone logo, accompanied by other initials,
such as C and A for California, N and Y for New York, or G and R for Germany.
Hair may be in deathhawk style (a wider teased-out variant of the mohawk
hairstyle), an angled bangs style, or in a devilock style.
Skate punk
Skate punk can refer to two very different groups. The first group refers to
those who are traditional skate punks. Traditional skate punks generally take a
backseat to fashion. There really isn't a consensus about certain brands that
have to be worn. The basic fashion encompasses clothing related to skateboarding
or punk culture. They commonly have shaggy or short hair. Baseball caps and
trucker hats are common, often with punk band logos or skate companies. They
wear tattered, torn jeans or shorts and a spike thimp belt and usually disregard
cleanliness. The other group commonly referred to as being skate punk is an
almost complete opposite of the former and borders on being the same as pop
punk. Generally, they are very clean cut and wear straight leg or baggy/sagging
jeans. They often wear hoodies with various logos. They also often wear loose
ties. All skate punk groups tend to wear skate shoes such as those made by Vans,
Adio, Etnies, Circa, Emerica and Fallen.
Pop punk
Pop punk fashion sometimes overlaps with skater punk fashion and emo fashion.
Contemporary pop punk fans often wear items such as band T-shirts with, tie or
scarf; blazers; Dickies pants, baggy pants, jeans or shorts; studded belts;
Converse All-Stars or skateboarder shoes. Popular patterns include check and
arms. Hair is usually long and up for women, and short and spiky for men — and
is often dyed black, platinum blonde, or natural hair colors with unnatural
streaks. The fauxhawk is quite common. This fashion is influenced mostly by
bands such as blink-182, Good Charlotte, Zebrahead,and Green Day. The clothing
store Hot Topic has become the one stop shop for pop punk clothing.
Obscure trends
Some punks dress similarly to the droogs in the film A Clockwork Orange. This
involves white boiler suits, bowler hats, black Dr. Martens or combat boots,
suspenders and sometimes black eye makeup (on one eye only). This look has been
displayed by bands such as The Adicts and Lower Class Brats, The Violators and
Major Accident. An item associated with the Suicidals scene (influenced by the
California band Suicidal Tendencies) is a baseball cap or trucker hat with the
bill upturned, and with text written or painted on it. Suicidals (and some
individuals in the later hardcore scene) also wear other styles associated with
the Cholo gang member look. This involves bandanas on one's head, Converse
sneakers and plaid flannel shirts. This style sometimes includes a shaven head.
Commercialization
Punk fashion has been extremely commercialized at various times, and many
well-established fashion designers — such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul
Gaultier — have used punk elements in their production. Punk clothing, which was
initially handmade, became mass produced and sold in record stores and some
smaller specialty clothing stores by the 1980s. By the late 1990s, the American
chain store Hot Topic established a niche in selling what they advertised as
"punk style clothing" at shopping malls. Many fashion magazines and other
glamor-oriented media have featured classic punk hairstyles and punk-influenced
clothing. These have caused controversy, as many punks view it as having sold
out; those wearing such clothes are often not considered real punks, although
they are commonly accepted in pop punk and skatepunk circles.
Common elements of punk fashion
* Badges
* Bleach-stained jeans
* Bondage pants
* Brothel creepers
* Buttons
* Chuck Taylor All-Stars shoes, or sweatshop-free alternatives such as Blackspot
and No Sweat
* Dickies pants and shorts
* Dr. Martens boots
* Dyed hair (often in unnatural colors such as blue, green or orange)
* Ear and/or facial piercings
* Fingerless gloves
* Fishnet stockings
* Hoodies
* Kutten
* Leopard print paterns
* Military uniform items such as combat boots, BDUs or dog tags)
* Mini-skirts
* Mohawk hairstyles
* Leather jackets
* Safety pins
* Sagging
* Skate shoes Such as Vans or Converse
* Sleeveless T-shirts
* Slim-fit pants
* Spike bands and studded belts
* Spray painted clothing
* Tartan patterns
* Tattoos
* Torn clothing
* Wrist Bands
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